Friday, 2 December 2016

Basel Dress Tutorial Graduation Day (Part 2) - Kickpleat with a lining

Hello!  This is the last tutorial in the Basel dress series and aimed at you if you are lining your Basel dress skirt (but it can be used for any project with a skirt lining).  

To see same the kickpleat tutorial but WITHOUT a lining, click here.

Here we go!

PREPARE THE LINING PATTERN

This skirt has a built in 4cm hem (plus 1cm to conceal the raw edge).

To start off, make the lining 7cm shorter than the shell.


...it should look like this.


STABILISING THE KICKPLEAT

Prepare strips of fusible interfacing - 8 in total.  Two of these should be wider (about 5cm) and roughly 3/4 of the width of the back of the skirt, and six of them about 1.5cm in width, and at least 5cm long.

Add the interfacing to the wrong sides of both the lining and the shell.

For the lining, the "wrong" side is the side facing the shell.




HEMMING THE LINING

Hem the lining by pressing a 1cm hem, and then folding it by 1cm again and stitching it in place (2cm total).

The distance between the lining and the shell hem is now 9cm.




FINISHING THE KICKPLEAT

Using a fabric marker or tailor's chalk, draw a line 1cm from the raw edge (the seam allowance) down the centre back of the shell and along to the top of the kickpleat (shell), on both sides.

Stitch from the base of the zipper to the top of the kickpleat.

Repeat the same process for the lining...


 ...and stitch down the centre back of the skirt from where the lining will meet the zipper, to the top of the kickpleat.  


On the lining, clip to, but not through the seam allowance at the top of the kickpleat.

Repeat for the shell.


When pulled right side out, the lining and shell should look something like this.

Carefully press the kickpleat of the shell.  Pay special attention to the accuracy of the centre back seam.


FINISHING THE KICKPLEAT - RIGHT SIDE

On the right side of the skirt, fold and press a 1cm hem on the kickpleat, right sides together.  (Both lining and shell)



On the right side of the skirt, match the shell and the lining and topstitch from the top of the kickpleat, to the hem of the shell.



It should look like this...


FINISHING THE KICKPLEAT - LEFT SIDE

On the left side of the garment, match the shell and lining WRONG sides together.

Pin in place and stitch the 1cm seam allowance from the top of the kickpleat to the hem.



Clip away corner of the the top of the kickpleat, being careful not to snip through the stichline. 


Turned right side out and press.  The back of the skirt should now look like this.


FINISHING THE KICKPLEAT - BOTH SIDES

Match the two kickpleats right sides together, with the right side of the shell down as below, and pin as shown.  (We are pinning to the left side of the skirt, but the right side of the picture below.)


Stitch along the top of the kickpleat, from the centre back seam to the edge of the kickpleat.



Finish the hem of the shell by pressing the 1cm raw edge of the shell under, and then folding up the 4cm seam allowance and hand stitching or machine stitching in place, meeting the lining.


With the kickpleat finished there is just a little hand stitching to go.  

Secure the bodice lining to the shell by turning under the 1cm seam allowance and slipstitching all the way around the waist.  
Repeat for centre back seam, along both sides of the zipper on the bodice and finishing any gaps on the skirt centre back seam.

Two frocks, two fabrics, two finishes!  If you're not lining the skirt, be sure to check out the sister tutorial here.


I hope you enjoyed making Basel and I hope you like wearing her even more!  Share your finished photos on Instagram #baseldress #honigdesign or email me designhonig [ a t ] gmail [ d o t!] com.

Thanks for joining me!

Basel Dress Tutorial Graduation Day - The kickpleat

Hello and Happy Friday!  You're close to having a new Basel dress to wear this week-end.  This tutorial is for finishing the kickpleat of the skirt if you are not lining the skirt.  If you ARE lining the skirt, click here.


LINING THE KICKPLEAT

Add 4cm wide strips of interfacing to the wrong side of the skirt back only, just covering the hemline.  Also add a strip of interfacing to the kickpleat itself, on side "B" only. 




FINISHING THE RAW EDGES OF THE KICKPLEAT

Turn in the raw edge of the kickpleat at the centre back by 1cm and press.

Zig-zag stitch down the length of the kickpleat on the newly pressed seam.

STITCH THE CENTRE BACK SEAM

Pin the centre back seam from below the zipper to the edge of the finished him on the top of the kickpleat.


Stitch in place, leaving the kickpleat open.


FINISHING THE KICKPLEAT

Clip just to the pivont point, on side A.


On side B, you may want to add in some lines with a fabric marker as a guide for this step.  

To do this, draw one vertical line from the centre back of the skirt to the hem, and one horizontal line for the hem (just a few centimetres long).  Remember that the hem is 4cm +1cm to finish the raw edge = 5cm total.


Fold the kickpleat at the vertical line, or centre back line, right sides together.


Pin in place, at the hemline.


Stitch along the hemline, just long enough to catch the kickpleat underneath. 


Cut away the excess fabric on the kickpleat as shown below.


Turn the kickpleat right side out and press.


HEMMING THE SKIRT

Turn over the raw edge of the hem (1cm) and stitch.


Turn up the full seam allowance of the hem (4cm) and stitch in place using a machine stitch, or stitch by hand as shown below.


SECURING THE KICKPLEAT 

Press the "A" side of the skirt to the "B" side, along the centre back line of the kickpleat. 

Press the centre back seam allowance open.


Pin the kickpleat in place as shown below.


Using the existing line of stitching at the top of the kickpleat as a guide, stitch another line of stitches, catching all the layers of the kickpleat underneath.

Make the stitch line runs only from the edge of the kickpleat to the centre back seam, and no further.



When you turn the skirt right side out, you should have a neat row of stitches like this, at a 45 degree angle.


FINISHING TOUCHES

If you are not lining the skirt, you are nearly finished!  Just a few finishing touches - to secure the bodice lining by turning under the 1cm raw seam allowance, and slipstitching all the way around the waist and up the centre back on each side of the zipper.


Voila!

Share your Basel dress on Instagram #baseldress #honigdesign or email me at designhonig [a t] gmail [c o m].  I'd love to see it!


To see the same tutorial, but with a lining, click here.